Above: Visitors might happen upon re-enactors in period attire over the holidays. Greater St. Charles Convention and Visitors Bureau photo Below: A fife and drum corps leads a parade each holiday weekend. Diana West photo

Three flags have flown over St. Charles. Founded by the French, then owned by the Spanish and finally part of the Louisiana Purchase, those influences remain and are celebrated through events collectively called the Christmas Traditions Festival.

Many original structures along Main Street are preserved and now house interesting shops, restaurants and inns that are decked out in lights and greenery during the holidays. Christmas Traditions celebrates 35 years in 2009 with special music, activities and a variety of programs. All events are free, except for the Christmas banquet, and are family-friendly and focus on a 19th-century theme.

Christmas characters

Start your old-fashioned Christmas with the Master of Revels who tells tales and roasts marshmallows over an open fire on Friday nights in front of Plank Road Pottery, 906 S. Main, the oldest structure in St. Charles dating to 1793. Inside, you’ll see wooden toys, pottery, mountain dulcimers, baskets and furniture that are handmade using 19th-century methods.

Every Saturday and Sunday afternoon, the Lewis and Clark Fife and Drum Corps leads a parade of Santas from other countries, costumed characters and Victorian carolers along the brick Main Street culminating with a Victorian Santa and Mrs. Claus in a horse-drawn carriage. A 20-minute skit follows in Berthold Square. Last year’s skit explained how Mother Goose helped the Christmas Angel earn her wings.

Afterward, the cast of characters strolls the streets sharing stories and passing out collector cards with their picture on the front and history on the back. Santa Lucia, who is popular in Sweden, wears a wreath of candles to light the way and wishes everyone a “good Yule.”

Santas are everywhere

Visitors will see a variety of Santas while in St. Charles. Father Christmas tells how he began his holiday work in 19th-century England. Frontier Santa wears buckskin and tells about visiting American pioneer families. A Civil War Santa, wearing stars and stripes, got his start from an 1863 cartoon by artist Thomas Nast. Then there’s Kris Kringle from Germany, Pere Noel from France, and Julenisse, a Santa from Scandinavia.

Children will be enchanted by Santa’s Train Land on North Main at Washington with a model train layout and animated figures. Children can have their photos taken with Santa at the Visitor’s Center (203 S. Main St.). And several shops throughout the historic district will sell 2009 commemorative character ornaments.

Old favorites, new ideas

“Each year, we try to offer something new,” says Liana Kopchak, artistic director of Christmas Traditions. Last year, the kissing ball–a bundle of mistletoe, holly, evergreens and ribbon–was introduced at the gazebo on Main Street. Several couples became engaged under the kissing ball as the Town Crier announced the news, followed by carolers singing, “Joy to the World.”

While that’s a tough act to follow, this year’s new attraction will be a temporary skating rink in Frontier Park. Rent skates and purchase warm drinks and other concessions at the nearby railroad depot.

A favorite tradition is a Spanish custom called Las Posadas. Held Dec. 5, it’s a re-enactment of Joseph and Mary searching for a room. A candlelight procession follows the couple from 1000 S. Main to Frontier Park, where a Biblical reading and living nativity occur. Venetia McEntire, who has portrayed Mary for many years, says, “It’s a special way to celebrate the holiday season that ties into the Spanish history of St. Charles.”

On Nov. 29 and Dec. 6, 13 and 20, a Christmas banquet takes place at the Mother-in-Law House restaurant, 500 S. Main. The audience interacts with characters from the holiday classic, “It’s a Wonderful Life.” Reservations are required, and tickets sell quickly.

The First Missouri State Capitol State Historic Site, 200–216 S. Main, traces the history of the territory before statehood in 1821 and for five years thereafter. Capitol by Candlelight tours are offered at night during the holidays for a small fee. Reservations are required.

Eat, shop and stay

With extended holiday hours, shops along Main Street offer memorable gifts. The English Shop, 703 S. Main, sells miniature mince pies, Yorkshire pudding and other treats, plus teas, teapots and cups. Thistle and Clover, a Celtic shop at 407 S. Main, has products of Scotland, Ireland and Wales.
Magpies restaurant, 903 S. Main, is in a building that dates to 1821. Try the asparagus soup and heart of palm salad for lunch, finishing with a luscious banana crêpe.

A fine microbrewery and restaurant is at Trailhead Brewing Co., 921 Riverside Drive. Sample the spiced pumpkin ale, a seasonal beer. Spend a night or two across the street at Boone’s Lick Trail Inn, 1000 S. Main. In an 1840 building, the bed-and-breakfast offers modern amenities. Enjoy stuffed French toast, sausage, eggs and fruit for breakfast.

A trip to St. Charles during the holidays will fill you with the Christmas spirit.

Diana West is a contributor from Joplin, Mo.