Missouri has preserved several of its Santa Fe Trail sites to safeguard the rich history of the overland route.
By Don Chamberlain

The Santa Fe Trail, which opened trade between frontier Missouri and Mexico, today provides entertainment and educational opportunities for explorers of all ages. The Santa Fe, America’s first significant commercial trail, began in Franklin, Mo., (near present-day Boonville) in 1821. This trip that originates in Boonville will take you to five Missouri sites along the Santa Fe Trail.

Above: A panoramic view of Fort Osage in Sibley, which is a restored version of the garrison built in 1808 under the direction of William Clark. Don Chamberlain photo In Title: At the National Trails Museum in Independence, there’s a sample of the trade goods transported on the Santa Fe Trail. Don Chamberlain photo

Beginning the journey

A Mexican revolution in 1821 freed that country from Spanish rule and opened up trade opportunities between Mexico and the United States. At the time, Franklin was the largest Missouri community west of St. Louis. A year later, William Becknell took goods to Santa Fe and returned with money and horses. By 1824, the trade expedition grew to include 25 wagons and 80 men.

The early optimism resulting from Becknell’s journey indicated that Franklin could become a major river city. Flooding in 1826 and 1828 destroyed that dream; townspeople relocated to a new community farther north and dubbed it New Franklin.

The original Franklin site is not far from downtown Boonville, which is 20 miles west of Columbia. Exit off Interstate 70 and follow U.S. Highway 40 to downtown. On the west side of Boonville located on bluffs overlooking the Missouri River, Harley Park has a scenic overlook that offers a view of the original site of Franklin across the river. Directly after crossing the bridge over the Missouri River, turn west on state Route 87 for about one-half mile to find a roadside park that contains historical plaques regarding the Santa Fe Trail, the War of 1812 and the Missouri Intelligencer, the first newspaper established west of the Mississippi River.

Access to Katy Trail State Park, a rails-to-bike trail development that follows old Boonslick Road to St. Charles, Mo., also is nearby.

In addition to historical buildings and markers, travelers will find hotels, motels, bed-and-breakfast inns, restaurants and the Isle of Capri casino in Boonville.

Arrow Rock

From Boonville, take I-70 west and exit at state Route 41. Drive north for 20 miles and look for the Arrow Rock Visitor Center sign. Here you can get information about the historical town of Arrow Rock, see a video, view displays and browse a gift shop.

Friends of Arrow Rock on Main Street present a guided tram tour of town that will take you to most of the historical sites and provide many stories about the community’s history. See Big Spring, which was a major water source along the trail.

Another watering hole of sorts is Huston Tavern that was built in 1834 and provided food, drink and shelter to travelers along the Santa Fe Trail. Today’s traveler can dine and tour the inn and its trading center. During my visit, I was given a pamphlet that described the history of the tavern and prompted me to take a self-guided tour. Across the street from the tavern are many shops on Main Street.

The tour also includes the home of George Caleb Bingham, noted Missouri artist who lived here from 1837–1845, and the gun shop and home of John Sites that is believed to be the only restoration of a gunsmith’s house and place of business at its original site.

Several bed-and-breakfast inns are here for an overnight stay.

Lexington

Follow the trail west from Arrow Rock via state Route 41 and U.S. Highways 65 and 24 for about 55 miles to Lexington. At the tourism bureau office on Main Street, pick up a brochure and map for the self-guided driving tour that looks at 15 Santa Fe Trail sites in and around Lexington.

Visit the Lafayette County Courthouse Square that contains a bronze plaque honoring the founders of the Pony Express: William Russell, Alexander Majors and William Waddell. These entrepreneurs originally made their money providing supplies for Santa Fe Trail travelers and later established the Pony Express. Note the Union cannonball embedded in one of the courthouse columns. It’s from the Civil War Battle of Lexington.

See the “Madonna of the Trail” statue at Broadway and Main Street. This is one of 12 statues along the National Old Trails Road from Maryland to California that are dedicated to the spirit of pioneer women.

Near the statue in the Highland Avenue Historic District is the John Aull house and Elizabeth Aull Seminary. The Aull Brothers were outfitters for the trail.

Visitors also can take a guided trolley tour to see the sights in Lexington. Several bed-and-breakfast inns are available in town for an overnight stay.

Fort Osage in Sibley

Between Lexington and Independence is Fort Osage in Sibley. The fort is about 14 miles east of Independence off Highway 24. From Buckner, follow the signs about two miles to the site.

Located on the Missouri River, Fort Osage is a restored garrison and trading post. Many travelers along the Santa Fe Trail passed by the fort, which was built in 1808 under the direction of William Clark. George Sibley managed the post until 1822. In 1825, he was made part of a team that would officially survey and map the trail.

Independence

After a day in Lexington, I drove about 30 miles west on Highway 24 to Independence and spent the night.

Visitors can get a good introduction to Independence by taking a covered wagon tour of Historic Independence Square with Pioneer Trails Adventures. Pick up the tour at the 1859 Jail and Marshal’s Home Museum near Independence Square on North Main Street. You’ll find the tour guide, Ralph Goldsmith, in his covered wagon. As you enjoy the ride, he tells tales about the history of Independence that involve westward trails, the Civil War, Frank and Jesse James and President Harry Truman. This is an excellent summary of history that the whole family will enjoy.

Learn more about the westward trails at the National Frontier Trails Museum, which has an excellent video, exhibits and gift shop.

Across the street from the museum is the Bingham-Waggoner Estate. This estate was the home of George Caleb Bingham and the Waggoner family, millers originally from Pennsylvania. Following a tour of the estate, look at the original wagon wheel ruts, or swales, on the property created by heavily laden wagons bound for the Santa Fe Trail.

Each Labor Day weekend, Independence celebrates the Santa Fe Trail, as well as the California and Oregon trails, with its Santa-Cali-Gon Days Festival. Known as the Queen City of the Trails, Independence played a major role in all three routes. The festival, this year Sept. 3–7, features a carnival midway, live music, historical displays and more than 400 arts, crafts and food vendors.

The Santa Fe Trail was a commercial and military highway until the railroad was introduced to Santa Fe in 1880. The trail was a major influence on Missouri and United States history. By visiting these five Missouri sites, travelers gain a better understanding of frontier life in the 1800s.

Don Chamberlain is a contributor from Decatur, Ill.