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Above: Exploring Great Sand Dunes National Park is a little like playing in a very large sandbox.
Below: One of the overlooks in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park affords spectacular viewpoints of the narrow, but beautiful, gorge below. |
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Rocky Mountain National Park
Rocky (as it’s known in Colorado) is the epitome of the mountain range for which it’s named. There are so many ways to enjoy this park, but the best way is to explore Trail Ridge Road. Crossing the Continental Divide between Estes Park and Grand Lake, the paved road traverses an astounding 11 miles above timberline, topping out at 12,183 feet. A vast expanse of tundra unfolds mile after mile, and is filled with alpine wildflowers in summer. A trip to Rocky must include Trail Ridge Road. There’s nothing quite like it in the national park system.
Abundant wildlife encounters delight visitors to Rocky. Elk graze in the meadows along Trail Ridge Road in summer and will likely be viewed in lower valleys, such as Moraine Park, at various times of the year. Perhaps you’ll be fortunate to come upon bighorn sheep, the state animal, in Horseshoe Park or along Trail Ridge Road. Deer are often seen in the lower valleys and those chubby, whistling marmots are up in the tundra. Moose can be seen on the west side of the park along the headwaters of the Colorado River.
For hearty souls who desire real adventure, consider a climb of 14,259 foot Longs Peak. This 16-mile round-trip is only for those with the stamina and strength to climb for this distance. If you’re not up for the climb, drive to popular Sprague Lake and Bear Lake.
Great Sand Dunes National Park
Think back to your childhood sand box. Remember a long sandy beach from your past. Now, imagine that sand box or beach is soaring hundreds of feet high and stretching for miles. It’s all right there at Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve in Alamosa, southern Colorado.
When you approach the dunes, you’ll first cross Medano Creek that in summer can be just a couple of inches deep or it may disappear into the sand before the crossing. The dunes are not far past the creek, and that’s where the fun begins.
Climb, run or slide down the dunes on a flat-bottom craft. When climbing the dunes, remember the 8,000-foot elevation can make exercising difficult. Photography can yield extraordinary photos. Early morning is good and late in the day is even better. You may sight deer near the dunes or even some pronghorn antelope in the area.
Mesa Verde National Park
About 1,400 years ago, people lived in the southwestern corner of Colorado, and while some grew crops in the fertile open fields, others settled in the high country atop a mesa. At some point, maybe 800 years ago, they built homes, storage rooms and ceremonial kivas in large, protected caves in the cliffs. For reasons not entirely clear, they left the area about 700 years ago. These cliff dwellings are what we now call Mesa Verde, located near Cortez.
Roads traverse the park and you can explore sites on the mesa top and spot others from viewpoints along the road. Try climbing down or up into the cliff dwellings with park service guides. If you only have time to visit one, Cliff Palace may be the one to try. It is spectacular, and is the signature location for the park. You must get an advance ticket at the park’s visitor center for Cliff Palace and those with mobility issues might not want to attempt the tight trail and ladders.
There are other cliff dwellings scattered throughout the park where you find yourself within the remains of an ancient civilization. Long House and Balcony House also need tickets; Step House and Spruce Tree House are open to entry on your own.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Think of the Grand Canyon and you envision overwhelming distance from one rim across to the other. You can’t yell from one side of Black Canyon to the other, but it is a distinctively tight, narrow and deep gorge. Cross a sagebrush-covered plateau on the drive to the park. Once inside, pull over to the first viewpoint to see the jaw-dropping, awesome scene before you.
Most of the developed park is on the south rim. South Rim Drive traverses the rim for seven miles and has frequent viewpoints. East Portal Road descends 2,000 feet to the Gunnison River in adjoining Curecanti National Recreation Area. At the bottom, enjoy fishing at the East Portal of the Gunnison River, designated as Gold Medal and Wild Trout Water. The north rim, reached from a totally different direction, has better viewpoints into the most narrow part of the canyon, and is less developed with fewer visitors.
National Monuments
In addition to Colorado’s four national parks, the state is home to five varied national monuments. Hovenweep straddles two states, Colorado and Utah. Trails connect a series of structures built mostly between 1200 and 1300 A.D., although cultures existed in this Four Corners area for hundreds of years. Canyons of the Ancients preserve a collection of separate sites occupied at about the same time as Hovenweep and nearby Mesa Verde. One of the most interesting hikes is Sand Canyon, southwest of Cortez, where you can discover cliff dwellings.
Colorado National Monument near Grand Junction is a red rock wonder. Drive the road that contours the upper rim and looks down into a land of rock spires and canyons. Look beyond the vast Grand Valley and see the city of Grand Junction. Take time to hike the trail that leads to towering, inspiring Independence Monument.
Dinosaur National Monument is another park that straddles Colorado and Utah. The Colorado section provides views down into the Yampa and Green rivers. There also is an exciting dirt road leading down to the Yampa River, but it should not be driven in wet weather. The Utah section near Vernal has a visitor center with an ongoing dinosaur dig.
Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument west of Colorado Springs was established to protect an extraordinary deposit of ancient insects. But visitors may spend most of their time amazed at the huge petrified redwood stumps preserved by ancient volcanic eruptions. There’s a ranger presentation at one of the stumps to put it all in perspective.
When planning your trip to Colorado, try to include a couple of these exceptional parks and monuments. You will be so glad you did.
Jack Olson is a contributor from Denver, Colo.
