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Above: An eternal flame burns brightly at the Truman Presidential Museum and Library. Gould Evans photo
Below: The Truman home has been painstakingly preserved and is open for tours. Independence Tourism photo |
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In a small glass enclosure is a hand-written note from a Connecticut couple whose son was killed in Korea. In the blunt letter, they told Truman that he might as well have their son’s Purple Heart–which was enclosed and is in the exhibit–because they said he was responsible for their son’s death. Truman kept the letter and medal in his desk throughout the rest of his presidency and afterwards to remind him of the awesome responsibility entrusted to him and the lives he touched as president.
Compared to many of the high-tech and interactive exhibits in the museum, the display is downright spartan. But it is powerful and poignant in its simplicity, telling the tale of a contemplative and compassionate leader who knew the consequences of ordering soldiers into harm’s way.
It is one of the little treasures that can be found in the museum and in the city, which are both rich with memories of Truman. With numerous historic sites, exhibitions and memorials, the city commemorates their native son who led the nation during some of the most crucial and eventful years in its history, and it will shine a spotlight on him even brighter this year during the 125th anniversary of his birth.
Happy birthday, Harry
Independence, located only a few miles east of Kansas City, is justly proud of Truman, who called the city home nearly his entire life. He was born on May 8, 1884, in Lamar, Mo., and his family moved to several farms before settling in Independence when Truman was 6 so he could attend school with his brother and sister. And that’s where he stayed for most of the rest of his life.
Despite rubbing shoulders with world leaders as president, Truman always wanted to return to the town where he was raised. “I tried never to forget who I was and where I’d come from, and where I was going back to,” he once said. On the back of his famous “The Buck Stops Here” sign were the words “I’m from Missouri,” which is what he saw every day seated at his White House desk.
His Missouri hometown will host a city-wide celebration on May 2 with a variety of events to honor the man who came back home. One of Truman’s first careers was as a farmer on the family farm in nearby Grandview, so the Dream Factory Tractor Parade will feature a caravan of up to 200 tractors. They will converge on the square from 6 to 7 a.m. and remain on display until 10 a.m.
Throughout the day, the Independence Square will be overflowing with flowers, herbs and garden accessories during the annual Lawn and Garden Show. There will also be live music, children’s activities, free birthday cake from 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m. and a chance to visit with Harry himself. In honor of Truman’s famous quote, most tourism sites in town will offer admission all day for a buck, and trolleys will run from 10 a.m.–2:30 p.m. from the square to most of the participating sites for $1 per person.
Magnificent museum
One of those sites that will offer discounted admission is the Harry S. Truman Museum and Library (500 U.S. Highway 24). The museum has undergone a $22-million renovation in recent years, and the exhibits today are highly interactive with advanced audio/visual technology. Visitors can hear and see historically important newsreel clips and marvel at a full-size replica of the Oval Office. New “decision theaters” offer visitors a chance to peek into Truman’s mind and determine the critical reasons he made difficult decisions, such as why he officially recognized the State of Israel.
Visitors can learn about Truman’s personal and family background in “The Life and Times of Harry S. Truman” exhibit through audio/visual components, displays and interactive stations. Children can make campaign buttons, sort mail like Truman did as a postmaster and dress up to look like Harry and Bess, his childhood crush whom he eventually married, or their daughter, Margaret.
The museum also will celebrate Truman’s birthday with its own events on May 8–9, most notably the re-opening of Truman’s Working Office, which he used at the library from the time it opened in 1957 until his death in 1972. The office, which has undergone a major restoration, can be seen through a window in the courtyard of the museum where an eternal flame and the gravesites of Harry and Bess can be found. A new pavilion encloses the viewing area and will feature exhibits about Truman’s influence on the museum; he was the first former president to preside over planning and operation of a presidential library.
There will be a Presidential Wreath Laying Ceremony at 9 a.m. on that Friday, May 8, followed by the opening of a new exhibit, “Truman 125: A Life in Photographs.” The 125 photos in the exhibition, many of which have never been displayed before, help examine the 19th century farm boy who became a 20th century giant. Then on Saturday, a children's puppet show called “Happy Birthday, Harry!” will be presented by the Puppetry Arts Institute at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., and the museum will serve a 125-foot-long birthday cake. And both days there will be portrayals of the president by a Truman re-enactor and admission will be $1.25.
Tracing the Trumans
While the museum is the crown jewel of the city’s Truman attractions, other sites in town also offer insight into the former president, who was a common man thrust into an uncommon role. During his humble beginnings, he worked as a haberdasher, farmer, bank clerk and even a sales agent for AAA, selling memberships in the club in 1925 and 1926.
Truman’s first job as a teenager was at Clinton’s Soda Fountain on the square (100 W. Maple), which still serves ice cream, phosphates, sundaes and more. You can sit on a padded stool at the bar and enjoy a sandwich and a milk shake. Not far away is the Truman Depot (1111 W. Pacific) where he spoke during his famous 1948 “Whistlestop” presidential campaign. Also on the square is the Truman Home Visitor and Information Center (223 N. Main), which shows a short video about the family and the home.
The Truman Home at 219 N. Delaware remains exactly as it was when Truman died, even down to the coats, hat and cane belonging to Harry and Bess left hanging behind the door. It’s a snapshot of their lives when Truman returned home from Washington D.C. after eight years as president. Visitors must purchase tickets for the tours ($4 for adults, free for children 15 and under) at the Truman Home Visitor and Information Center.
Other sites include Trinity Episcopal Church (409 N. Liberty) where Harry and Bess were married in 1919, and the Jackson County Courthouse on the square where Truman served as a county judge. The courthouse will undergo a major renovation this summer and his courtroom and office in the building will be closed. The Independence Tourism Department has put together a walking trail brochure outlining all of the Truman sites in town, as well as other attractions. Copies are available at the Truman Home Visitor and Information Center (223 N. Main), at City Hall (111 E. Maple), or by calling (800) 748-7323.
Beyond Truman
While Independence is rich with treasures of Truman, there are other gems. Before Harry came along, the town was a major jumping-off point for the Santa Fe, Oregon and California trails. Visit the National Frontier Trails Museum (318 W. Pacific) to learn the stories of those who followed the trails. A video, examples of wagons, artifacts from the trail and a children’s activity room examine this fascinating era of overland migration across the rugged American west.
For an overland trip of your own, try a covered wagon ride from the square with Pioneer Trails Adventures, which offers tours ranging from 15 minutes ($7) to 75 minutes ($25). In a mule-drawn wagon, Ralph Goldsmith guides travelers to the city’s sights and tells tales about Frank James, Wild Bill Hickok and, of course, Truman. Tours are offered year-round weather permitting. For information, call (816) 456-4991 or visit www.pioneertrailsadventures.com.
In addition to several Mormon heritage sites in town, there are a number of fascinating historical homes that offer tours, including the Vaile Mansion (1500 N. Liberty). The 30-room mansion is recognized as one of the finest examples of Second Empire architecture in the country. Highlights of the red brick Victorian include ceiling murals, lavish furnishings and nine marble fireplaces.
Another masterpiece is the Bingham-Waggoner Estate (313 W. Pacific). Built in 1852 along the Santa Fe Trail, the 26-room mansion was once home to the famous artist George Caleb Bingham and then later the Waggoner family. Most of the early furnishings, art and accessories from the home are intact and on display, including a massive music box.
A building that’s much less ornate but equally compelling is the 1859 Jail, Marshal’s Home and Museum (217 N. Main) on the square. Dungeon-like cells housed thousands of prisoners during the Missouri/Kansas border conflicts and the Civil War, including famous outlaws like Frank James, who was treated like a hero and didn’t even have his cell locked. The site will host a living history event on June 6 to bring the jail’s past to life.
For an attraction even more out of the ordinary, visit the Puppetry Arts Institute (11025 E. Winner Road). Home to hundreds of colorful puppets and marionettes from around the world, the center features the collection of renowned puppeteer Hazelle Rollins, who operated the world’s largest puppet factory in nearby Kansas City. Visitors can make and paint their own puppets and then put on a play, and the institute has a schedule of puppet shows. There’s even a Truman marionette on display.
Most attractions in town have some link to Truman, who remains woven into the fabric of this town 125 years after his birth. His story is richly and uniquely American, and to celebrate his birthday is to honor the nation. Perhaps Pulitzer Prize winner David McCullough said it best when he observed: “You can understand more about our nation by spending a day in Independence and at the Truman Library than anywhere else in the country.”
Dennis R. Heinze is regional editor of AAA Midwest Traveler magazine.
