Flint Hills National Scenic Byway offers
unparalleled vistas and cowboy history.
By Sally M. Snell

The Flint Hills National Scenic Byway is 47 miles of breathtaking tallgrass prairie, steeped in the history of the American cowboy and westward expansion. Once covering 140 million acres in North America, less than 4 percent of the tallgrass prairie remains today, and most of this is in the Flint Hills of Kansas. This ecosystem is more endangered than the rain forest.

Top: The Flint Hills seem to go on forever in undulating waves of green in the spring and summer and gold during the fall. A regional tour company offers covered wagon adventures. Above: Completed in 1873, the venerable Chase County Courthouse in Cottonwood Falls is the oldest courthouse in continuous use in Kansas. ©Michael C. Snell photos

Explorer Capt. Zebulon Pike gave the Flint Hills its name when he noted the chert, or flint, that dotted this band of rolling hills in his 1806 journal. Limestone escarpments shoulder their way through the thin topsoil forming a barrier that protects this stretch of land from the plow. And controlled periodic burns cleanse the prairie of woody invasive species.

The Flint Hills National Scenic Byway was Kansas’ first National Scenic Byway, and it’s an especially pretty drive in the spring.

“It brings people through this area that may have never come before,” said Charley Klamm, chairman of the byway committee. “We were born and raised with the blue stem in the Flint Hills and we love it.”
He laments that sometimes visitors speed past the prairie’s true beauty.

“They overlook the rolling hills, bluestem pasture, cattle grazing certain times of the year, and the wildflowers in the spring. Stop and look down. Out here it is wide open–the grass, the vistas–you can see forever,” Klamm said.

Chickens and cowboys

The Flint Hills National Scenic Byway begins on Kansas Route 177 approximately an hour northeast of Wichita in the sleepy town of Cassoday. This community is known as the Prairie Chicken capital of the world, and on mid-April mornings, the calls of these ground-dwelling birds echo across the prairie.

North of Cassoday, Route 177 passes through Matfield Green. For a real cowboy experience, Deb Zeiner of the Chase County Chamber of Commerce recommends having lunch at the Hitchin Post.

“Guys come draggin’ in with chaps and spurs. And the food is great,” said Zeiner, adding that they have the best hamburgers around. Matfield Green is also the jumping off point for Country Boys Carriage and Prairie Adventures, an experiential excursion company that hosts group day trips into the prairie.

Flora and fauna

Many grasses and flowering plants comprise a tallgrass prairie including bluestem, indigo, switchgrass, needlegrass and aster. In the spring, red, yellow and purple blossoms embellish the new green grass, while in the fall, the dry grasses dress the land in creams and bronzes.

The prairie is rich in an abundance of wildlife, including meadowlarks, badgers and wild turkeys. Insects sing in the grass near the Schrumpf Hill overlook off the west side of Route 177 south of Cottonwood Falls. Interpretive signs located at the overlook are a great way to learn more about the region.

Interesting architecture

Further up the road, the Chase County Courthouse in Cottonwood Falls is one of Kansas’ crown jewels. This 1873 stone structure was designed in French renaissance style by famed Kansas architect John G. Haskell, and is the oldest courthouse in continuous use in Kansas. Its three-story black walnut spiral staircase is a favorite subject among photographers. The courthouse is currently undergoing historic renovations. Until work is completed later this summer, the courthouse is closed to tours.

At the opposite end of Broadway, the 1914 Luten-designed bridge has been reopened to foot traffic after extensive restorations were completed in late 2007. The falls over the old dam west of the bridge make this a favorite spot for fishermen. Have a picnic in the park on the north shore of the river, or savor the food at the Emma Chase Cafe on Broadway, which hosts live entertainment every Friday evening. During the summer these performances spill out onto the brick-lined street in front of the restaurant.

The walls of the town’s Grand Central Hotel reverberate with the history of the great cattle drives, and outlaws and lawmen of the Old West–but with all the elegance you would expect from its AAA four Diamond rating. This is cattle country, so indulge in a juicy steak and a glass of wine. Ask about the AAA lodging discount.

Strong City is located about one mile north of Cottonwood Falls. Drive to it, or walk or bike the wide community connection trail that parallels Route 177. This paved walk and the restored bridge are two parts of a three-part project that will eventually link Cottonwood Falls with the walking trails of the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve.

Strong City is home to the 71st annual Flint Hills Rodeo, held June 6-8. The three-day rodeo includes bull riding, barrel racing and team roping. It draws approximately 15,000 spectators. On Saturday afternoon, a parade stretches from Cottonwood Falls to Strong City.

“Every horse in the county comes and walks down the street,” said Zeiner, who estimated close to 300 horses participated in the 2007 parade.

There are cowboy dances on Friday and Saturday evening, and a cowboy worship service at the fairgrounds Sunday morning. “I find it charming,” said Zeiner. “These are down-to-earth rodeo folk.”

Nearing the end of the byway

The Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, Kansas’ only national preserve, includes more than 10,000 acres of native tallgrass prairie, along with an 1881 three-story native stone Second Empire ranch house, three-story barn and a full complement of original outbuildings. The preserve recently was selected as one of the Eight Wonders of Kansas by voters in a contest organized by the Kansas Sampler Foundation, a non-profit organization whose mission is to preserve and sustain rural culture.

At the site, visitors can tour the home and buildings, and walk along the park’s main trails. Or pick up a free permit to hike on trails in the park’s backcountry.

The byway ends at Council Grove, but in many ways, this is where the history of Kansas begins. This small community boasts a whopping 24 historic sites, many associated with the Santa Fe Trail. The 1850 Kaw Mission, built by the Methodist Episcopal church, is a state historic site worth seeing. Dine at the 1857 Hays House, founded by one of Daniel Boone’s great-grandsons and patronized by the likes of Jesse James and George Custer. And end your visit with an overnight stay at the Cottage House, a small, historic AAA two Diamond hotel. Ask about the AAA lodging discount.

Symphony in the Flint Hills

The Kansas City Symphony will perform a program of classical music to match the sweeping prairie landscape during the third annual Symphony in the Flint Hills, scheduled for Saturday, June 14. This year the event will be held near Council Grove on former Kaw Nation land.

The concert site is in the middle of a prairie, and visitiors are encouraged to arrive early to attend live presentations on the culture and heritage of the Flint Hills. Tickets go on sale in early March. The 2006 and 2007 performances sold out quickly. Visit www.symphonyintheflinthills.org.

Sally M. Snell is a contributor from Topeka, Kan.