With half the crowds, heat and cost, winter is a great time to explore the beauty and wonders of the Grand Canyon.
By Michael Redstone

When President Theodore Roosevelt declared in 1903 that the Grand Canyon is the “one great sight that every American should see,” little did he know the extent to which future generations would heed his advice. In fact, just since 1919–when the site gained national park status–nearly 160 million people have trekked to this remote corner of northwest Arizona to witness firsthand the epic beauty that so profoundly affected the president.

But the canyon’s popularity has not come without its drawbacks. This natural wonder attracts more than 4 million visitors annually. With a little less than 40 percent of those coming during the months of June, July and August, summer at the South Rim in particular is not a destination for seekers of solitude. Anyone who has visited the South Rim during the busy summer months has no doubt experienced the throngs at the area’s overlooks, restaurants and lodges.

Avoid the Crowds

It is possible, however, to experience the indescribable beauty of the Grand Canyon without having to fight the crowds. The simplest way is to visit during December, January or February–when the park’s attendance is at its lowest (except for holidays). And a quieter environment is not the only reason to visit during the winter.

IAbove: The rustic Phantom Ranch is the canyon’s only lodging below the rim. Xanterra photo n Title: Visitors at sunset taking in the splendor of the Grand Canyon from Mather Point on the South Rim after a dusting of winter snow. Mike Quinn/National Park Service photo

Cold weather conditions at the canyon can create scenes of stunning beauty, when a fresh coating of snow on the cliffs and mesas makes the infinite view even more breathtaking or when the angled winter sunlight creates a mosaic of shadows and colors that is not generated under a high summer sun.

The slower pace of the low season also means accommodations at the park’s lodges are easier to come by and can be found at substantial discounts from high-season rates. For an impromptu winter trip to the canyon, there is a good chance that rooms will be available in at least one of the eight lodges on or near the South Rim.

Go Ahead–Venture In

Possibly the best reason to visit the Grand Canyon during the winter is that the colder weather is much more conducive to venturing into the great chasm–an adventure that few visitors experience in any season. One look at the National Park Service’s Grand Canyon Web site is enough to intimidate even a seasoned adventurer. The site warns of incredible heat, the lack of shade and limited availability of water. It is little wonder that most visitors keep to the rim.

But during the winter months, these hazards are much less of a concern, and in fact, the inner canyon often affords pleasant temperatures for hikers. The South Rim is located at 7,000 feet above sea level, and as the elevation gets closer to sea level within the canyon, the temperature rises. At the canyon’s floor–5,000 feet below the rim–temperatures are usually 15 to 20 degrees warmer. With January high temperatures averaging in the low 40s at the South Rim, the average high at the canyon floor is about 60 degrees.

It is therefore common for trails to be icy just below the rim, with conditions improving while descending into the canyon. Instep crampons that strap onto hikers’ shoes are available at the South Rim’s General Store and are recommended on icy trail portions.

While it is true that extreme weather conditions are common at the South Rim during the winter (the North Rim is closed from October to May), with a little planning, the cool winter temperatures make a hike below the rim possible for people in relatively good shape. While strenuous, the hike offers unparalleled rewards.

The two trails leading into the canyon from the South Rim–Bright Angel and South Kaibab–are well-maintained, easy to follow and remain open year-round (except during snow-related closures). Anyone hiking these trails will experience an incredible array of changing panoramas–from massive, sheer cliffs and impossibly deep gorges to vast plateaus.

A Unique Destination

The ultimate experience, however, is trekking to the canyon bottom to spend a night or more at Phantom Ranch, the park’s only lodging below the rim. This development, consisting of several rustic cabins around a main building, is nestled in a deep gorge just north of the Colorado River and adjacent to the pristine Bright Angel Creek.

Park service concessionaire Xanterra has made the ranch more accessible by offering a duffel transport service. For about $60 round-trip, a duffel bag up to 30 pounds can be transported by mule directly to and from the ranch, thus allowing hikers to travel with only a day pack filled with essentials like water, snacks and a first-aid kit.

Although by no means a luxury retreat, the ranch provides an oasis for the trail-weary hiker. It offers the perfect combination of basic comforts in an incredible setting of rustic splendor. Guests are housed in gender-segregated dormitories that contain bunk beds and a communal shower/bathroom. Cabins that contain bunk beds and a cold-water sink and private toilet, with shower room a short walk away, are usually reserved for those arriving by mule.

The food service and quality are surprisingly good considering the ranch’s location. Breakfast (eggs, pancakes, bacon and fruit) and dinner (steak, beef stew or vegetarian chili) are served family-style in the main building, which doubles as a lodge/canteen. Sack lunches and snacks are available for purchase at the canteen. Reservations for meals–as well as for accommodations at the ranch–should be made well in advance.

Michael Redstone is a contributor from Chicago.
-area freelancer, hopes to live at Phantom Ranch one day.