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Published Jan/Feb 2007 |
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Native American pueblos open a window to the world of the
ancient people of New Mexico. By John Handley |
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 isiting American Indian country in the Southwest is a window to another world. At Native American pueblos and reservations, visitors discover age-old cultures, hear tribal languages and view ceremonies that carry on ancestral traditions.The trail of the first Americans also leads to the past, far back to the time when the ancients lived in the Southwest. The ruins of their long-abandoned villages still stand in the stark desert landscape. And while the culture of these earliest Americans can be found in southwest states like Colorado and Arizona, New Mexico is the home of 19 pueblos, two Apache tribes and a portion of the Navajo Nation. Setting out on your journey An informative place to start exploring New Mexico’s Native American heritage is at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center (2401 12th St. NW) in Albuquerque. The best time to visit is on weekends when traditional dances, bread-baking and craft demonstrations are given. The art demonstrators may range from a Laguna pueblo potter to a Zuni pueblo weaver. Owned and operated by New Mexico’s 19 pueblos, the non-profit center is devoted to culture, art, and history. Each of the pueblos is represented in exhibits about weaving, pottery, jewelry and clothing. A restaurant serves Native American food. View ancient art on Albuquerque’s west side at Petroglyph National Monument. The visitors’ center is at 6001 Unser Blvd., NW. More than 17,000 petroglyphs of dancers, priests, mythic creatures, animals and geometric designs are carved into black volcanic rock. Most of the works were created from 1300 to 1650. Another historic site is the Acoma Pueblo, about 50 miles west of Albuquerque on Interstate 40 at exit 108. Acoma is known as Sky City because it was built hundreds of years ago atop a 357-foot sandstone mesa as a defense against enemies. A tour of the pueblo offers dramatic views of the countryside below. Tall ladders lean against the adobe pueblo structures. Pottery made by Acoma artisans can be purchased at some of the homes. Visitors are taken to the San Esteban del Rey Mission church, built in 1629, and told the story of the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 when the Spanish were forced out of the area but returned 12 years later. The Sky City Cultural Center and Haak’u Museum opened in May last year. In addition to fine exhibits, there is a gift shop and café on site. And, like many tribes in the state, the Acoma operate a casino (Sky City Casino and Hotel), which is located on I-40 near the road to the pueblo. Inspiring taos A long-time favorite of painters and photographers, Taos Pueblo also has inspired architects. The classic look of the multi-story pueblo has been copied in pueblo-style architecture. Built at the base of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the pueblo is just north of the town of Taos. Visitors can check out the 50 shops and galleries of local artisans. Taos is known for its pottery, jewelry and leatherwork, including moccasins and drums. The Taos Mountain Casino is two miles from the traditional village. The Taos Pueblo is a World Heritage Site and a National Historic Site. The year’s largest event is San Geronimo Annual Feast (Sept. 29–30), with dances, a fair, foot races and pole climbing. Other pueblos In addition to Acoma and Taos, other fascinating pueblos are Cochiti, Isleta, Jemez, Laguna, Nambe, Ohkay Owingeh, Picuris, Pojoaque, Sandia, San Felipe, San Ildefonso, Santa Ana, Santa Clara, Santo Domingo, Tesuque, Zia and Zuni. To see how Native Americans lived, head for Chaco Canyon, northeast of Gallup. In the Chaco Culture National Historical Park located on County Road 7950, view the ruins of Native American dwellings. The largest structure is Pueblo Bonito, which had four stories and 600 rooms. Walking trails lead to the major sites in the canyon. It has been designated a World Heritage Site. Archeology buffs also will want to check out Bandelier National Monument, located off state Highway 4. Near the visitors’ center in Frijoles Canyon are ruins of pueblos that date to the 12th century. Bandelier is near Los Alamos. Apache and Navajo One of the true highlights in the northwest corner of the state rises 1,800 feet from the desert floor. Shiprock Peak, 12 miles southwest of the town of Shiprock, is a towering landmark that has sacred meaning for the Navajo. The Jicarilla Apache Tribe is in northern New Mexico along U.S. Highway 64. Their culture center has information about the tribe’s history. The Mescalero Apache Tribe in the Sierra Blanca Mountains in southern New Mexico offers winter skiing at Ski Apache. Travelers’ etiquette An exciting time to visit the pueblos is during feast days, which are held throughout the year and are open to the public. Many pueblos will have ceremonial dances on Jan. 6 for Kings Day. Jan. 23 is the annual feast day for San Ildefonso Pueblo. However, some pueblos are more visitor-friendly than others. For example, the San Felipe Pueblo is just 30 miles outside Albuquerque, but visitors are only welcomed at certain times of the year, such as during the Green Corn Dances in May. Visitors are reminded that tribal dances are religious ceremonies, not performances for tourists, so it is not appropriate to applaud the dancers. Fees and restrictions on photography and recording vary at each pueblo. Do not remove anything from these historic sites. Souvenirs can be purchased at the pueblos, which are known for their fine arts and crafts, including pottery, jewelry, weaving and drums. The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center has details on special events and visitor information. John Handley is a contributor from Northbrook, Ill. |
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| Lodging and dining options in New Mexico | |||||||
| For a place to stay in Albuquerque, consider the AAA three diamond Hacienda Antigua Inn. This adobe hacienda dates to the 1700s and now is an eight-room bed-and-breakfast. AAA members receive a rate discount. It is located at 6708 Tierra Drive, NW. For information, call 1-800-201-2986. To enjoy some of the best New Mexican cuisine, try the Barraza burrito at the Albuquerque Grill that’s located in the Best Western Inn, 12999 Central Ave., NE, (505) 298-7426. Cristobal’s, located in the Hotel Albuquerque in Old Town, is only open for dinner, but guests are treated to Spanish tapas and entrees with New Mexican flair. There’s an assortment of paella, plus steaks and seafood. Casual diners might consider the Café Plazzuela & Cantina–also in the hotel–for enchiladas, green chile cheeseburgers, tapas and signature drinks, like the Sangria Margarita. It’s open for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Hotel Albuquerque is at 800 Rio Grande Blvd., NW, (505) 843-6300. The Pueblo Harvest Café at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center (505-843-7270) is a place for breakfast and lunch. Try pueblo and Spanish fare or warm bread right from the oven. Finally, for fine steak and seafood grilled over exotic woods, the AAA four diamond Rancher’s Club of New Mexico at 1901 University, NE is a must. So are reservations. Call (505) 884-2500. |
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