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| Ferryboats | ||||
| Cross the region’s rivers the scenic, leisurely way |
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| Published: Jul/Aug 2002 |
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| Bridges are architectural marvels that have helped speed our travels immeasurably. We can cross the slightest streams and widest rivers in a matter of minutes, with only a fleeting chance to glance at the water below. Though American commerce and travel couldn’t exist without today’s modern bridges, sometimes it’s nice to step back and slow down with a ride on a ferryboat, the precursor to bridges. They aren’t the fastest way to cross a river, but they more than make up for it with the lovely scenery and close-up river perspectives. While bridges have replaced most ferries, a handful of them still operate in the region. For older Midwesterners, they offer a sense of nostalgia, and for youngsters they are an exciting experience. As the wind whips in your face and the water slaps against the hull, you might feel like Huck Finn or Tom Sawyer. Before setting out, call ahead to make sure the boats are operating. At press time for this issue, flooding had forced some to shut down temporarily. Calhoun County A good place to start a river adventure is in a river town like St. Charles, Mo. Located just northwest of St. Louis on the banks of the Missouri River, the town was founded in 1769, and its ties to the river are strong. Lewis and Clark camped in the area before setting off in a keelboat on their expedition. Today, the historic district features dozens of antique and craft shops, cafes, restaurants and historic sites in restored historic buildings. From the historic downtown, take Second Street north, which turns into Highway 94. Turn left on Highway B and follow the signs to the Golden Eagle Ferry, which crosses the Mississippi River to Calhoun County in Illinois, virtually an island of land stuck between the Mississippi and Illinois Rivers. Calhoun County is accessed by four ferries, including the Golden Eagle Ferry. The fee is $4.50 for a one-way ticket and $8 for a round-trip. For details, call (618) 883-2217. From the river, head inland through rolling hills and farmland toward Brussels, a small country village first settled by German immigrants in 1822. Follow the signs further north to reach the Brussels Ferry, which crosses the Illinois River to the Great River Road (Highway 100). The ferry is free, and during the winter, you can glimpse bald eagles soaring overhead. Call (618) 786-3636. Once across the river, head north up the Highway 100 to see its picturesque bluffs and river scenes. You’ll pass through Grafton, where you can have a bite to eat or browse in antique and craft shops. And only a few miles further north is beautiful Pere Marquette State Park, where you can camp or stay in a rustic lodge. If you’d like to sample another ferry, head about 16 miles further north on Highway 100 to Route 16 and head north to Eldred, where you turn left on Route 108. Drive another three miles to the ferry, which crosses the Illinois River to Kampsville. Rides are free. For details, call (618) 653-4518. Kampsville is home to the Center for American Archeology. Located in a historic general store on Highway 100, the center features artifacts and exhibits that examine what life was like 10,000 years ago in the region. For details, call (618) 653-4316. As you head south from Kampsville along Highway 100, you can sample yet another ferry in Calhoun County. When you reach Hardin, follow the signs to Batchtown and the Winfield Ferry. The ferry crosses the Mississippi River just below Locks and Dam No. 25 back into Missouri. For details, call (618) 396-2535. The fee is $4.50 one way or $8 round-trip. From Winfield, take Highway 79 south about 15 miles to Interstate 70. It’s only nine miles east to get to St. Charles. Southeast Missouri Another popular river town, Ste. Genevieve was founded about 250 years ago when French colonists on the Illinois side of the river were searching for more agricultural land. Across from Fort Kaskaskia was a fertile section of river bottom called the "Grand Champ," or Big Field, and it was there that the original site of Ste. Genevieve was founded, just south of the present community. The river remains an integral part of the fabric of life in Ste. Genevieve, which has preserved much of its early French heritage in its historic homes, some of which date to the 1700s and early 1800s. A visit to the Great River Road Interpretive Center downtown offers a glimpse of the city’s colorful history through artifacts and exhibits. For details, call (573) 883-7097 or 1-800-373-7007. To cross the river as so many colonists did, drive to the north end of Main Street, which ends at the river. The 10-minute ferry journey across the Mississippi River to Modoc, Ill., offers a memorable view of the river. The cost is $7 one way or $12 for a round-trip. Once in Modoc, it’s a short drive to Fort de Chartres State Historic Site, a reconstructed French stone fortress that dates to the mid-1700s. For more details, call 1-800-373-7007. Further south of Ste. Genevieve, travelers can take another ride on Old Man River from Dorena, Mo., close to the boot heel. The area features several interesting sites, including Towosahgy State Historic Site, a ceremonial center inhabited by Native American Indiana mound builders about 600 years ago, and Big Oak Tree State Park, which features Missouri State Champion trees, a lake, swamp and hiking trail and more. Each September, the park offers a Living History Day when artisans demonstrate traditional crafts from yesteryear. At the landing in Dorena, you can catch the only operating ferry between Missouri and Kentucky. The Dorena-Hickman Ferry costs $8 per car and operates daily year-round. For details, call (901) 285-0390. The ferries throughout the region might be slow, and the cities that they link are typically small. But feeling the swaying of the river underneath you, gazing at massive barges nearby hauling their freight and listening to the blast of the boats’ horns are worth driving out of your way. |
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